As you might imagine, I was all about Bon Appetit’s May “Italy” issue. Especially the pasta al pomodoro on the cover and the “How to Make Perfect Pasta” tutorial.

Now, I am pretty sure this is what the cover says is “the simplest, silkiest sauce you’ll ever make.” I disagree. It isn’t difficult, and it is pretty silky if you run the whole thing through the blender (because I don’t like chunks in my sauce). But I did sob — and have to wash my hands and rinse out my eyes — while chopping the onion. Don’t say you weren’t warned.

Despite the onion tears, this is really good sauce. Toby likes it better than my normal tomato sauce. And the method of finishing the semi-cooked pasta in the sauce is definitely a winner.

The recipe in the magazine suggests you puree the tomatoes in a food processor before you put them in the sauce. But I put the cooked onions and garlic in the (plastic) blender with the tomatoes and pureed the whole thing.

You need to save some of the pasta water and put that in with the sauce before you add the pasta. After the pasta is cooked, you add butter and cheese and toss before you put it in the bowls.

I wasn’t able to mound the spaghetti up quite like the cover, but it didn’t look too bad. And it tasted fantastic. I will definitely be making this again… but next time, I probably won’t wear mascara.

Pasta al Pomodoro (adapted from Bon Appetit) Makes four generous portions
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion
4 garlic cloves
1 pinch crushed red pepper flakes
1 28-ounce can peeled tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
Pinch kosher salt
3 large sprigs of fresh basil
12 ounces spaghetti
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan or Pecorino

Dice the onion, and crush and dice the garlic.

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add onion and cook, stirring, until onion is soft — about 12 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 to 4 minutes. Add crushed red pepper flakes and cook for one more minute.

If you want chunk-less sauce, take the onion/garlic mixture off the heat, stir in some of the tomato sauce, then add tomatoes and onion/garlic/tomato sauce mixture to a blender or food processor. Puree and pour whole thing back into the skillet. Otherwise, just puree the tomatoes and add to the onion/garlic mixture.

Increase heat to medium and season with a pinch of kosher salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 20 minutes. Remove pan from heat, stir in basil and set aside.

Meanwhile, bring water to a boil in a large pot and season with salt. Add spaghetti and cook until about two minutes before tender (this will be in the 4-5 minute range). Reserve 1/2 cup cooking water and drain pasta.

Remove basil and throw it away. Heat the skillet over high heat. Stir in reserved pasta water and bring to a boil. Add pasta and cook, tossing/stirring until sauce coats pasta and pasta is al dente — about 2 minutes.

Remove skillet from heat. Add butter and cheese and toss until cheese melts. Transfer to warm bowls. Serve with more cheese.